Pandora Pj ‘lite’ version

The Pandora Pj’s includes sizes AU/UK 6 – 24 / US 2- 20 / EU 34 – 52 with cup sizing from A up to DD cups. The pattern features cup linings and an upper back lining and is made with under bust elastic that wraps around the body to provide support, and keep the under bust seam in place.

If you are an A or B cup you might not want all this support, so here is a tutorial on how to make a simpler ‘lite’ version.

Print the back pieces 6 and 7. Measure a line 12mm / 1/2″ from the upper edge on the lower back, and overlap the upper back to this line. Tape in place, so the back will be this one whole pattern now.

Pin the lace pieces to the corners of the front cami. Sew a zig-zag stitch across the scallop edge, following the shape of the scallop. Sew a basting stitch along the side and lower edges of the lace.

The upper lace cup can be unlined if you prefer the sheerness of your lace, although I do suggest you attach a narrow elastic across the top. The elastic is a flat measurement so there is no gather, it will just be a little extra support for your lace. I’ve used a 3mm wide woven elastic here, you could also use a narrow picot elastic. Using a water erasable pen or a pin, mark the notch on the centre front end of the lace, this is the cross over point for the lace when overlapping the centre front.

With right sides together pin the raw edge of the lace to the top edge of the lower cups. Pin the right side of the cup lining to the lower cup, so the lace is sandwiched between the two
fabric layers. Sew a basting stitch along the cup seam.

Overlock/serge the cup seam. Remove the basting stitching and turn the lining over. Press the seam lightly, a pressing ham helps when pressing curves.

Making sure the lower edges are lined up, sew a gathering stitch in between the notches on the lower cups.

Lay the right cup over the left cup, matching the centre front notches, and stay stitch across the lower edge.

With right sides together pin the cups to the front cami, adjusting the gathers to fit between the notches on the front. Sew a basting stitch along the bustline.

Overlock/serge the under bust seam.

With right sides together, pin the front cami to the back. Overlock/serge the side seams.

For non-adjustable straps cut to the required length. With right sides together and facing down, stitch the straps to the back matching to the notches. Stitch the straps 6mm/1/4” from the edge.

Cut the underarm elastic to the required size. With right sides together pin the elastic to the underarm. Use a 3 step zig-zag or a small zig-zag and stitch close to the fancy edge.

Turn the elastic over to the back and sew down using a 3 step zig-zag or a small zig-zag stitch. Try to keep the stitching close to the lower edge of elastic so it will sit flat.

Place the end of the shoulder strap behind the lace. Sew one row close to the top of the cup, and
another across the bottom of the strap. A small zig- zag stitch on the scallop edge of the lace at the strap and at the centre lace crossover will help to keep the lace sitting flat.

For the cami hem sew a 3 thread overlocked/serger narrow hem, or a 3 thread rolled edge.
Press the hem lightly.