How to sew a scallop lace edging.

A stretch scallop lace edging is a very pretty and easy way to finish off a hem. I have included it as an idea for the Darcy dress.

When you are placing the lace start at the centre back seam. Place the lace with about 1cm or 1/2″ past the seam. Place the bottom edge of the lace in line with the bottom edge of your hem. Pin each scallop in place using a pin for each scallop. Work from right to left as this will be easier when putting it under the machine. Pin the lace all around the hem of the skirt.

When you come around to match at the back seam try to make the lace overlap at the same scallop curve. With stretch lace you can usually manoeuvre the lace to do this. Readjust and re-pin until it works!

Use a stretch or a ballpoint needle. (I prefer stretch but you may want to experiment) Place under the machine foot – take the pressure right off the foot if your machine allows it. This will prevent the lace from stretching when you are sewing it. Using a small to medium size zig zag stitch start your stitch on the seam of the skirt (so you are leaving the 1cm/ or 1/2″ free.) Follow the curve of the scallop edge. Take the pins out as you go, leaving them until the needle is very close. If your foot pressure is off, it’s almost like freehand machine embroidery because you are guiding the fabric underneath along the curve.

The back looks like this. Don’t worry if it looks a bit bunched up, pressing will help to flatten it at the end. As long as you have no obvious tucks going on.

When you have sewn nearly to the back seam again, stop about 15cm or 6″ out.

Mark with a pin or a marker pen where it lines up with the seam.

Flip the end of the lace over, and with right sides together sew the lace ends together using the 1cm or 1/2″ seam allowance. I use a straight stitch for this. Remember to backstitch at each end. Use a wet cloth to wipe the blue pen away if you used it and trim the seam allowance to 6mm or 1/4″

Open the lace hem out, and re-pin the remaining scallops to be sewn.

Overlapping the previous stitching by 1cm 1/2″ continue the zig zag stitch until you come to the seam. Backstitch. Press the lace hem with a medium iron to flatten the stitches.

Now comes the fun part – you may need to have a cup of tea and listen to a good podcast while you are doing this. Using a small pair of embroidery scissors cut the fabric away just underneath the zig zag stitch.

I like to use my little embroidery scissors for this job, you’ll need a pair of scissors that are quite small so you can manoeuvre them around the curve. Duckbilled scissors will also do the job.

There you have it, a pretty lace hem.