With any pattern you purchase you may find that you need to alter it slightly to suit your beautiful unique shape. Bra patterns are no different, in fact working out your size and the level of fitting required can sometimes feel overwhelming and you may wonder where to start. The Blossom bra has a wide size range, and finding the best size to begin with is the first part of the fitting exercise.
First you’ll need to choose your underband size. Measure your underbust ensuring the tape measure is pulled firmly around you. Refer to the measurement chart below and check the underbust measurements along the top blue section of the chart and determine which size your measurement puts you in.
The chart below gives you the finished underbust measurements for each size. These measurements take into account the relaxed unstretched elastic and the hook and eye (the bra will stretch out to fit your underband measurement). It may also help to measure some of the most comfortable bras that you already have in your lingerie drawer and compare. The correct size is the most comfortable size for you, some people like to have their underband really firm, while others prefer a more relaxed fit.
Once you’ve decided which underband size to use, the next step is choosing your cup size and underwire. Your full bust measurement will give you an idea of where to start. On the measurement chart, follow the column under your band size and see which cup size is recommended. If you have a narrow back you may actually be a higher cup size, or if your back is a little wider you could be a lower cup size, so you may need to go up or down a cup size.
Another way to determine your cup size is to subtract your underbust measurement from your full bust measurement. My underbust is 75 cm and my full bust is 90 cm so the difference is 15cm, which would be a B cup. The 12 B fits me well in the Blossom bra.
A difference of 13 cm needs an A cup
A difference of 15 cm needs an B cup
A difference of 17 cm needs an C cup
A difference of 19 cm needs an D cup
A difference of 21 cm needs an DD cup
A difference of 23 cm needs an E cup
A difference of 25 cm needs an F cup
When you choose your cup size, then have a look at the underwire chart below and see which size wire goes with that cup size. When you are ordering wires it’s a good idea to order 2 or 3 wire sizes so you can see how they fit your breast shape.
The Blossom underwire uses the regular wires from Bra Makers Supply or a similar shape. The code for the Bra Makers wire is WR and the size range for this pattern is from WR 30 – WR 58. The blueprints for the wire shapes are included in the tutorial, and are also found on the Bra Makers website.
Check to see if the wire size suits your shape by placing the wire under your breast with your arm raised. Remember the pattern is designed to pull the wire out slightly at the underarm. If you want to use a wider wire for your size, you could either try the next cup size up or alter the pattern to accomodate a longer/ wider wire.
Each size has been made for the length of wire stipulated. As there is a 15mm wire grade
between each wire, so you will need to add on 15mm (approx 1/2”) around the cup and frame to fit the longer wire as shown below.
Once you’ve decided on the size, cup size and wire size make a toile bra in similar fabrics to see if you need to make any alterations. One of my testers for the Blossom bra used a water soluble thread which I thought was a clever idea. Others made their practice versions up faster by omitting the cup lining, and simply pinning the straps on for their first fitting.